Take tons of pictures
If you do not already, then početi.Potrazi interest will be disappointed, so be prepared to delete them from your hard drive ... that is, after you've taken a hard look at why it does not look good. But - more good literature is absorbed and tutorials, and advice from more experienced, your image will begin to take on more vitality and life
.After recording volumes of images, you begin to realize that this is a matter of visualizing the final result, and more importantly, control the technical aspects of your camera and the lighting that surrounds the object. As your technique becomes instinctive, then the results become more predictable as time goes on. Let's break this down a little more.
So, you have a nice camera
a great thing. So do many other people, yet their images do nothing more than a document where you were. To move beyond that, you need to master the camera to overcome the fear of using all the buttons and scroll wheel. I recommend you spend some dedicated time to experiment. If you're still using film, several roles were sacrificed solely for the purpose of learning will have a big pay later. I do this when I buy a new camera or flash, as well as TTL metering dial pad and calculator in the world does not guarantee a good shot. Sorry! I let some geek-speak is ...
Start by setting up cameras at ISO 100, and 800 ISO. Use a tripod, 100 ISO, the other settings you can do without, if the light is bright enough. Lower ISO settings are good for falls, Still life, portraits - all there is little set-up time. 100 ISO will continue to do for a hand held out in the sun, even if there are a few clouds. A 800 is for action to stop situations like sports. The thing is, the number of smaller, slower shutter speed.
If you are still shooting film, as a finishing touch to a roll of 100 ISO transparency (or "slide") film to open shots on suncu.Zasićene colors are beautiful, but differences in exposure will be increased with slide film, Unlike more forgiving print film. It's a good thing to learn the difference from the beginning.
understanding of ISO Ratings
You may know this already, but higher ISO, the more sensitive film or CCD. Modern SLR cameras are smart - photography with a variety of settings, I recommend the above will make your camera can vary your shutter speed and / or aperture size to let in just the right amount svjetla.Osnovni results from each image will be sličan.Glavna difference between these different film or CCD speed is - well - the speed! ("Speed" ISO to fast shutter speed to match up to the light requirements.) But the movie camera, another important consideration is the size of the grains. Faster film has larger grains, a slow film has a very fine grain, which is great for expansion without having to look fuzzy. Digital cameras show what is called "digital noise" on the higher ISO ratings, which appear as artifacts in the image, or "digital noise ".
four important elements of photography
now - there are four very important elements that you have control over here. This is the essence of all photography, and if you stop, depending on the camera work program and to take control of these variables as they understand more, then you have tremendous creative freedom. These are: shutter speed, aperture size, exposure, and kadriranja.Prva three are technical, while the fourth is a more artistic nature.
Before you begin, please familiarize yourself with a couple of things on camera. Learn how to change the way the program shutter priority, aperture priority, and finally, how to read the internal light meter. It will all be in use.
1 - Shutter Speed
As mentioned earlier, in camera mode will vary the shutter speed and aperture settings, depending on the number of elements, but mainly on the ISO speed of your film or CCD. So, if the opening remains constant, and change ISO, shutter will have to speed up or slow down to expose properly. When the shutter speed should be fast to stop the movement, ISO speed is required, such as 800 or 1600 ISO.
However, if the shutter speed is not your first consideration (ie, when the camera steady on a tripod, as in portraiture), go for slow speed, which will result in better image quality. Prints can then be lifted into the air, keeping the details as they get larger.
The camera will have some way of moving from agenda to shutter priority (or "TV" on most cameras). Again, read your camera manual to figure out how to move in this mode. Once there, keep the shutter - say, 1/250th second, for example. The camera will then automatically adjust the aperture to let in just the right amount of light for proper exposure. Fire a few shots in this mode, changing the subject and the light intensity from each izloženosti.Primjer beautiful long exposure image that falls. With the camera on a tripod, set the shutter to ½ second, if your ISO is slow enough, and exhibit based on the method described in the "Exposure" section below.
2 - Aperture
Ever walk into a dark room immediately after the open in bright sunlight? Notice how the dark, like you're on your sunglasses. We know that our eyes adjust, because if we stand there for several minutes, the room lightens up. It is thanks to the amazing engineering behind the iris in each of your eyes - that controls the amount of light that hits our retina. Your camera's aperture setting to the camera as your iris is the eye. (Film / CCD is equal to the retina - I think you get the analogy ).
is now time to put the dial in "Aperture Priority" mode, or "AV". Here's where you choose to set the aperture (or "F-Stop"). The camera then selects the appropriate shutter speed
the real fun begins when you manually control aperture size in your camera lens, for something called "depth of field" comes into play here ... I'm sure you've seen pictures where the subject is in focus, however, not all in the background. It draws attention to your subject, whether birds, insects, flowers - you're not distracted by the surrounding elements kadru.Iznos the background and foreground out of focus is up to you, which is controlled by opening and closing the hole with the f-stop control . Your camera manual will provide details on manually changing the f-stop setting.
When taking a variety of test shots, your camera will change the shutter speed a bit like experimenting with different f-stop ratings. Keep in mind that fewer, larger aperture, the more light that falls on the film or CCD-AF-stop of 2.8 will also have a fairly shallow depth of field, while the F-22 is almost like a pin-hole cameras, where everything in focus. Good for landscape shots, but will probably require a tripod for slow zatvarača.F-stop of 5.6 or 8 will yield an average looking pictures, and will be very harsh. This is because most lenses perform best in this range.
3 - Exposure
Most, if not all SLRs have a button to lock exposure. This is for the camera at an optimal level of exposure in the event that the item is in the middle, and / or optimal "middle gray" part of the frame is off center. This is because the cameras are programmed to use the center of the picture as a reference point when measuring light your SLR camera has a microchip that measures the amount of light when a snap shot of the current setting, so that the work program, it will set the aperture and shutter speed based on the number variables too complex for this article - but suffice it to say, trying to make intelligent choices. And most times it will, but if you were just a point 'n shooter, would not be reading this now, right?
So, if the optimal light intensity (again, mid-gray) is somewhere outside the picture, what do we do? Point the camera at this mid-gray portion of your shot, lock the exposure, re-frame, then shoot! This is a great way to avoid exposure to many common errors. Common reference points are the person's face if you include people shot, and green grass in an open shot. Many pictures show the winter as snow gray instead of white for this reason. The camera is merely trying to "average" exposure to
Why mid-gray (or skin)? This is used as a reference for all camera and light meter exposure system. It exposes the body at just the right amount, so it's a good idea to get a reading on the part of the image that is closest to the mid-toned shade. If you want to get technical, purchasing 18% gray card from your local camera store and use as a reference. Your pictures will be dead-on. Do not forget to get the exposure lock when the card is directly facing the camera lens.
for an explanation of print vs.slide Film: Keep in mind that print film (also called negative film) is far more forgiving than the slide (or transparency) film in terms of exposure latitude. Slide film is less forgiving, but the picture quality is superior. Generally, the print film is used for portraiture, weddings, and generally tourist-y type of image. Since the slide is more color-saturated, and the first generation, it is more suitable for publication. The prints are "second-generation", and thus themselves inferior in sharpness because they are made by putting your developed negative film in the enlarger, then exposing photographic paper. Slides come from the development of the film in a camera.
So - knock off a bunch more shots, playing with the aperture size and changes in film / ISO settings. By keeping an eye on your camera's light meter, you'll soon discover the variations and limitations of your camera.
4 - Framing
mentioned above, the "framing" your shot set the distance and angle between camera and subject so as to create a pleasant fotografiju.Pravilo in many situations (in which the object you are photographing it does not take a whole shot) is something called "Rule of thirds ".
Imagine a box in the third division - both horizontally and vertically. Now line up your subject in any of the points of intersecting lines used to divide the picture. These "hot spots", if you will be considered the most aesthetic, as opposed to always have your subject in the middle. It is not always the case, but something to keep in mind.
Another nice touch is to allow the picture elements become frame itself, as well as overhanging tree branches. Other times these things are clutter and distract, but experience is the best teacher here. Simplicity and elegance go a long way in making images with "wow" factor ...
Happy Shooting
So - with a camera, some time, a notepad and pencil, an afternoon of experimenting will go a long way in de-mystifying the ins and outs of serious photography. It was in a hobby or professional level, the four elements of the shutter speed, aperture, exposure and framing are essential ingredients in creating art that will please yourself and others in the years to come.
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